Graceful cascades of room saxifrages
Otherwise, as a multi-level, saxifrage in room culture can not be called. This plant simultaneously forms beautiful, lush rosettes of basal leaves and produces thin and long lashes of drooping shoots that create a “second tier” under the containers. No other culture can boast of a similar originality of forms. And unusual foliage, unique muted colors and flowering like spring drops - all this only emphasizes the uniqueness of the saxifrage. In addition, like garden counterparts, room saxifrages are very easy to grow.
- Modest in representation, but not in beauty of a saxifrage
- Care for a saxifrage at home
- Saxifrage rejuvenation
- Saxifrage Diseases and Pests
- Saxifrage Reproduction
Modest in representation, but not in beauty of a saxifrage
Inimitable saxifrages, given their name for their ability to settle in crevices of rocks and the ability to penetrate roots into cracks, are primarily associated with rocky gardens and alpine slides. These are hardy and contented with minimal conditions plants that retain their unpretentiousness also in room culture. Saxifrages belong to the family of the same name Saxifrage (Saxifragaceae).
In room culture, saxifrages are represented by one single species - wattle and daub (Saxifraga stolonifera) To decorate rock gardens, rockeries, supporting walls, flower beds, garden compositions and even garden potted gardens, saxifrages can offer a very diverse choice: about a hundred different types of saxifrages are introduced into the garden culture (but not in the indoor).
You should not be upset because of the meager variety of indoor species: although the plant is only one, how beautiful it is! Yes, and he has varieties that provide the desired choice.
Wicker saxifraga is an ampelous plant that can be grown in hanging baskets, in pots on coasters or high legs, and in ordinary containers installed so that the lashes can freely hang down. The height of the saxifrage is limited to 10 cm of the outlet, but the lashes can grow up to 40 cm in length.
Kidney-shaped, rounded, with a heart-shaped base, a town-shaped edge, leathery-fleshy, small basal leaves of the saxifrage are collected in a very beautiful and lush rosette, from which the plant releases thin, filiform, long, unbranched shoots. The reddish color of the “threads” only emphasizes the beauty of the color of the foliage, making the plant even more unusual.
Velvet leaves with a bristled edge and wrinkled texture, light veins are not painted in classic shades of green, but in muted tones of olive, gray-green, bluish-green, which seem mysterious and unique. Young leaves of saxifrage along the edge are flaunted with a purple coating, repeating exactly the tone of the shoots, but as they grow older they lose their reddish hue. The reverse side of the leaves is purple.
At the ends of each whip, saxifrages form daughter plants — branches, which are miniature rosettes with small leaves and aerial roots. The finest shoots, due to their length, seem to form another "layer" of greenery under the plant; the plant is visually perceived as longline. And although the type of saxifrage growth reminds of chlorophytums, this plant is completely different - elegant, graceful and touching, not powerful, but elegant.
The flowering of a room saxifrage is a very touching sight. The loose brushes of inflorescences with small white flowers seem like a scattering of sparkling drops. Asymmetrical, with three shortened and almost imperceptible upper and two lower long and large lanceolate lobes, large radially diverging stamens, the flowers make you look at the details and amaze with grace, reminiscent of small fairies or dragonflies.
Of the varieties of the wattlebreaker, Tricolor is considered the most popular and favorite - a variety in which the basic grayish-metallic color of the leaf plates is combined with pink spots and a white border around the edge. They are in perfect harmony with the blue leaves and only emphasize the amazing play of textures. Less popular, but also beautiful, are the golden-leaf saxifrage varieties Harvest Moon and Golden Leaves (the first cuttings and shoots are light, the second purple, and the edge of the leaf plates is more carved).
Care for a saxifrage at home
Saxifrages are hardy, fully preserving all their unpretentiousness, even in houseplant culture. They put up well with shading, do not have complex temperature requirements and require standard care. These amazing ampelous cultures can be grown both by experienced gardeners and beginners.
This hardy plant will reveal all its beauty in good light and in more secluded places. But the brighter the illumination, the more pale the leaves of the plant and the less unique texture and bluish hues appear. The plant must be protected from direct sunlight.
It is not necessary to exhibit saxifrage on the windowsill: within the penumbra locations it will feel great in the interior, especially since it visually expands and structures the space, is one of the most attractive cascading plants.
Saxifrage does not like strong shading. The plant itself signals a lack of lighting, but not with a violation of growth and elongation of shoots, but with paler leaves. Thanks to this natural “signaling”, one can experiment with the selection of a place and easily understand if a plant needs a bit more intense lighting.
Saxifrages are very unpretentious to the temperature of the plant. They feel great at any room temperature, adapt well to almost any mode of detention. In the summer, they will be satisfied with both restrained and hot temperatures. But in winter, if it is impossible to keep the plant warm, then the saxifrage is able to withstand cooling down to 5 degrees of heat.
If you want to admire the snow-white drops of inflorescences over the saxifrage, then during the dormant period for the plant you need to maintain cool conditions - the temperature is from 8 to 12 degrees. Warm wintering will affect the abundance of flowering, but saxifrage will not harm. An exception to the standard rules for the wintering of saxifrages is its varietal plants, including Tricolor, which can not withstand lowering the temperature even to 15 degrees (the permissible minimum is 16-18 degrees heat).
In summer, saxifrage can be safely exposed to fresh air. She is not afraid of drafts, but she will need to be protected from direct sunlight, as carefully as possible.
Watering and humidity
Saxifrages, as in nature, are more accustomed to dryness in room culture than to high humidity. Water the plant with caution and restraint, allowing the water to completely drain and immediately draining it from the pallets, drying the substrate in the upper layer between procedures. Watering saxifrages is especially carefully carried out in winter, making the procedures as rare as possible, only maintaining the minimum light moisture of the substrate (but still not allowing complete drought). When watering, you need to ensure that water does not fall on the outlet of the leaves.
Saxifrages do not have special requirements for air humidity, but the higher it is, the more beautiful the foliage. Mandatory measures for moistening the plant needs during the operation of heating devices and on hot days when the air temperature rises above 25 degrees. Regular spraying is also suitable for saxifrages, as well as installation on a pallet with wet moss.
Fertilizers for room saunas are applied only from March to September. In late autumn and winter, the plant is not fed. The optimal frequency of procedures is once every 2 weeks. If there are signs of a lack of nutrients in the winter, you can apply a half-reduced dose of fertilizer once every 2 months. For saxifrage it is better to choose universal fertilizers.
Transplant and substrate
The saxifrage is so unpretentious that plant transplantation can be done literally at any time in spring and summer, while the bushes are in the active vegetation stage. It is still better to carry out a transplant only when it is necessary for the plant itself: when the roots come out of the drainage holes, the plant will fully master the breadth provided to it.
The plant is not demanding on the soil. Any loose substrate is suitable for saxifrage, for example, a universal earth mixture for indoor plants.
For saxifrage, it is worth picking wide, but not high pots.
Saxifrages should be transplanted carefully, being careful not to damage the leaves and thin shoots, having enlisted help to keep the lower “tier” during this procedure. When transplanting plants at the bottom of the containers, a high layer of drainage is necessarily laid, and if possible, loosening additives of expanded clay or vermiculite are added to the substrate itself.
This plant is prone to loss of attractiveness only at a considerable age, old plants are unattractive after flowering. If your saxifrage is deformed, its leaves lose attractiveness, the plant looks neglected or has suffered from pests and other problems, you can simply replace the old outlets with new ones from the young outlets on the lashes. Since the plant itself offers planting material for replacement, no difficulties with rejuvenation will arise.
Saxifrage Diseases and Pests
The greatest danger to indoor saxifrage is aphids. These pests adore saxifrage, and even one plant in the collection should be infected, as insects are likely to quickly occupy saxifrage. You need to deal with the problem quickly using insecticides. Saxifrages and spider mites are loved, especially if measures are not taken to compensate for the extreme dryness of the air.
Of the diseases, saxifrage most often suffer from fungal infections, rust. It is better to fight them with copper-containing drugs.
Common growing problems:
- lack of bloom in low light;
- lack of flowering during warm wintering;
- blanching of leaves in dense shade.
Without exaggeration, this is one of the easiest indoor plants to reproduce. To get new saxifrages, it is enough to separate and root those same baby plants at the ends of its shoots. Propagation by layering is such a simple way that the other two options (separation of bushes and seeds) are practically not used, although you can experiment with them using standard methods if you wish.
Layers before rooting can be rooted in a small attached pot, slightly digging the shoot in the soil for rooting, and then separating the resulting baby from the mother plant or simply cut and put on the root in water or substrate under the hood.