Oleanders are now often sold in flower shops. It has a flexible stem, narrow leaflets, lanceolate, leathery, reminiscent of willow leaves. Flowers are simple and double, large, collected in a brush. The color is most often pink, white, cream, red. Flowering lasts from June to October. By the way, the name of the plant comes from the words "oleo" - fragrant and "Andre" - the name of one of the Greek islands. However, do not forget that the oleander is a large-sized plant, that is, if you do not limit it in growth, it can reach considerable sizes (up to 1.5 m and above). Therefore, it is perfect for growing in large rooms with high ceilings, shops, halls, offices, greenhouses.
The homeland of this plant is the Mediterranean countries. Therefore, in indoor conditions, it prefers bright sunny places. This is one of the few plants that will not mind the bright sunlight and growing on the southern windows. In the summer it is taken out to fresh air, and in the winter it is placed in a bright, cool room with a temperature of 8-12 degrees. Very fond of airing.
The plant requires regular heavy watering, especially in spring and summer. In winter, watering is moderate. Oleander reacts poorly to hard water, so it must be soft, settled. Spraying is useful if the plant is standing in rooms near heating appliances.
In spring and summer, every two weeks, the oleander should be fed with mineral fertilizer. In hot weather, it can be installed in a gravel pan filled with water. The bush is transplanted annually in early spring, before flowering. From the age of 5 they do this less often - once every 2-3 years. An adult plant will need a flowerpot with a volume of at least 10-15 liters. The soil mixture can be prepared from turf, leaf, humus soil and soil (4: 2: 2: 1). During transplantation, the old roots are greatly shortened, the sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.
If you want to admire the flowers of the oleander annually, remember that it blooms only on annual shoots, so it must be cut annually. To do this, after flowering, all shoots are cut in half to stimulate the growth of the lateral. Cropped branches can be used for rooting. Due to the absence or weak pruning, the plant may not bloom at all. Do not wait for flowering in low light bush or lack of moisture.
Unfortunately, pests such as scale insects and spider mites can infect plants. At one time, we did not notice the scale insect, and we lost a large bush of oleander. The body of this insect is covered with a hard shield, and sticky secretions on the leaf signal its appearance on the plant. At the first signs of a pest, wipe the leaves with a piece of bandage or cotton wool soaked in tobacco or soap solution, alcohol or kerosene. In case of severe damage, treat the plant with an insecticide. When affected by a red spider mite, the affected leaves are destroyed and the bush is treated with actelik or other insecticide. It is useful to rinse the plant from time to time in the shower.
Propagating an oleander is easy. To do this, in the spring or summer, you need to root the apical stem in the soil in a mini-greenhouse or in a bottle with water. The neck of the bottle can be covered with plasticine or covered with paper. And in the water, to prevent rot, add a piece of charcoal. The roots will appear in about a month.
It is easy to propagate the oleander from the seeds. To do this, in January-February, it is sown in a moist substrate, slightly mowing the soil from above. Cover with glass and keep it moist. At a temperature of 23-25 degrees, seedlings will appear in 12-15 days. Remember only that the seeds quickly lose their germination.
It is important not to forget that the oleander is a poisonous plant. It is better to work with him in gloves, trying to prevent his juice from getting into his eyes or skin, as this can cause irritation and a rash. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. Where there are children or pets, the oleander is propagated very carefully.